Carthage — The Salt Curse

Your quest begins at the esplanade of the Antonine Baths, a UNESCO 1985 archaeological site. Built between 162 and 166 AD under Emperor Antoninus Pius, these baths were the second largest Roman bath complex in the world, covering 35,000 m² and accommodating 6,000 bathers. They were supplied by the 132 km long Zaghouan Aqueduct. Exploring the caldarium, tepidarium, and frigidarium sections, you decipher the first riddles that lead you to Byrsa Hill, the highest point of Carthage.

You then ascend Byrsa Hill, the acropolis of ancient Carthage, rising 65 meters above sea level. It was the administrative and religious center of the Punic city, offering panoramic views of the Punic Ports and the Mediterranean. It was the site of the last Carthaginian resistance during the final siege in 146 BC, where approximately 50,000 inhabitants perished. Louis Poinssot's excavations (1920-1923) revealed layers of Phoenician, Punic, and Roman occupation, with major artifacts now housed in the Bardo Museum.

Your journey takes you to the Punic Ports of Carthage, a unique dual harbor system in the ancient world dating back to the 6th century BC. The circular military port, 325 meters in diameter, could accommodate 220 warships, according to Strabo. Connected by a narrow 20-meter canal, these ports were destroyed by the Romans after 146 BC, then partially restored. The archaeological remains visible today, including artificial islets and limestone quays, were excavated by UNESCO between 1974 and 1994, testifying to Carthage's maritime power. Nearby, the Tophet of Carthage, a sanctuary dedicated to Tanit and Baal Hammon dating from the 8th century BC, reveals funerary ritual practices with over 20,000 urns containing the remains of children and animals, as shown by Reginald Campbell Thompson's excavations in 1921-1922.

Continue towards the Amphitheater of Carthage, built in the 2nd century AD under Roman rule. With a capacity of 30,000 spectators, it hosted gladiatorial combats and animal games, including lion hunts. Its dimensions of 156 meters long by 122 meters wide, with a central arena of 67 × 39 meters, attest to Roman engineering. Sophisticated hydraulic systems even allowed the arena to be flooded for naval battles. This classified historical monument in Grand-Tunis immerses you in imperial Rome, before discovering the Cisterns of La Malga, an underground Roman reservoir from the 2nd century AD storing 30,000 m³ of water from the Zaghouan Aqueduct, proving Carthage's mastery of water management.

Your exploration of Carthage concludes at the Basilica of Damous el Karita, a 5th-century AD Christian edifice measuring 80 meters long by 50 meters wide, marking the city's conversion. Wall mosaics and architectural remains reveal superimposed cults, from Punic foundations to Christian additions. This itinerary has led you through the Roman ruins of the Mediterranean and a UNESCO World Heritage site, from the Zaghouan Aqueduct to the ancient Punic Ports. You leave with an understanding of Carthage's historical significance, a multifaceted city that shaped the history of Grand-Tunis and all of Tunisia.

The salt of Carthage, that legendary curse, has given way to priceless archaeological treasures. From the imposing Amphitheater of Carthage to the remains of the Sanctuary of Tanit, each site has revealed a layer of the city's tumultuous history. You have deciphered the riddles of the past, explored the Roman Baths of Antoninus, and discovered the secrets of the Zaghouan Aqueduct. This thematic circuit in Grand-Tunis is more than an interactive visit to ancient Carthage: it is a deep immersion into the civilizations that shaped this Mediterranean crossroads, a heritage you take with you.