Ayutthaya — Secret of the Decapitated Monk

Your quest begins at Wat Mahathat, the main royal temple of Ayutthaya, built in 1374 during the reign of King Ramesuan. As a sovereign, you witness the power of this complex, destroyed in 1767 during the Burmese siege that razed Ayutthaya. The ruins, a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1991, house 12 chedis, once guardians of the ashes of Ayutthayan kings. It is here that the Buddha head, entangled in the roots of a bodhi tree, signals the starting point of your investigation, a symbol of the resilience of this ancient capital of Thailand.

Continue your investigation towards Wat Phra Si Sanphet, the largest temple in Ayutthaya, erected between 1491 and 1499 under King Ramathibodi II. This royal temple, never ordained for monks, was used exclusively for royal ceremonies and princely residences. Its three central chedis, each 44 meters high, house the ashes of Kings Borommarachathirat II, Boromkot, and Ramesuan. This location was also the site of the execution of the Greek minister Constantin Phaulkon in 1688, an event marking foreign influence and political intrigues in the Royal Siamese Capital.

Your journey then takes you to Wihan Phra Mongkhon Bophit, built around 1950 to house a colossal bronze Buddha statue. Dating from the 16th century and cast during the reign of King Songtham, this 12.46-meter-high, 15-ton statue was moved here after restoration. The main Wihan, measuring 37 meters in height and capable of accommodating 5000 worshipers, was repaired after damage from the Burmese bombardment of 1767. It represents the continuity of Buddhist faith in the heart of Ayutthaya, even after destruction.

The enigma deepens at Wat Ratchaburana, founded in 1424 by King Borommarachathirat II to commemorate his brothers lost in a boat accident. Its central prang, the highest in Ayutthaya at 62 meters, is adorned with 15th-century stuccoes and bas-reliefs. It was here, during major excavations between 1935 and 1966, that Buddhist treasures, including gold ingots and statues, buried since 1767, were discovered in 1957. These discoveries shed light on the wealth and funerary practices of Thailand's ancient capital.

Your exploration of Ayutthaya Historical Park concludes with the Old Royal Palace, the administrative center of the Ayutthaya kingdom from 1350 to 1767, and Wat Phra Ram, built in 1369 by King Ramesuan in memory of his father, Ramathibodi I. The palace, site of 33 successive kings, was destroyed by the Burmese on April 7, 1767, after a 14-month siege. Wat Phra Ram, with its 32-meter main prang and hybrid Khmer-Thai architecture, is surrounded by an artificial lake used for royal sacred ablution rituals. The foundations of the three main palaces remind you of the 200-hectare expanse of this city, whose UNESCO-listed ruins from 1991 bear witness to its past grandeur and the secrets it still holds.