Valletta — Caravaggio's Dark Secret

Your investigation begins at the City Gate, a modern structure from 2014 that rises on the remains of the original fortified gates, destroyed in 1555 and rebuilt in the 17th century. This main entry point to St. George's Square harmoniously integrates elements of the 16th-century baroque bastions, silent witnesses to Caravaggio's arrival in Valletta in 1607. It was here that the painter crossed the city's defenses, in close proximity to Fort Saint Angelo, where he would be imprisoned in 1608. Valletta, European Capital of Culture 2018, opens its doors for a historical visit and a unique treasure hunt.

Just 300 meters from the City Gate, you reach the Grandmaster's Palace, built between 1571 and 1574 under the patronage of Jean Parisot de La Valette, the city's founder. This historic seat of the Order of Malta, with its two inner courtyards and 16 state rooms, served as the administrative center where the Knights judged Caravaggio in 1608. Here, decisions were made, destinies sealed. The walls of the Palace witnessed Alof de Wignacourt, Grand Master during Caravaggio's tumultuous stay, and were the scene of the deliberations that led to the Italian master's condemnation. It is a central monument to Valletta's heritage.

St. George's Square, 200 meters from the City Gate, is the beating heart of Valletta. Surrounded by 16th-17th century baroque buildings, it is named after the Knights' patron saint. In the center stands an equestrian statue of Grand Master Jean Parisot de Valette (1581), an emblematic figure of the Order. This square, a place of public gatherings, is inextricably linked to the events of 1608, being a stone's throw from the palace where the Order pronounced Caravaggio's expulsion. It is a key site for understanding the history of Valletta and the context of the painter's exile.

Your journey then leads you to St. John's Co-Cathedral, consecrated in 1577 and a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1980. This conventual chapel of the Order of St. John houses, in its oratory, Caravaggio's monumental work, 'The Beheading of St. John the Baptist,' painted in 1608. It is the only work signed by his hand, his name inscribed in the martyr's blood. 400 meters from the City Gate, this edifice was the site of the assembly on December 1, 1608, where the Order decided to expel Caravaggio. The Auberge de Castille, built in 1574 and redesigned in baroque style, stands nearby on Castille Square, 500m from the City Gate. Now the seat of the Maltese government, it witnessed the painter's last days in Valletta.

The path concludes at the Upper Barrakka Gardens, laid out between 1775-1780 on the fortified bastions. 600 meters from the City Gate, these gardens offer views of the Grand Harbour and the Three Cities. These fortifications protected Valletta, a stronghold of the Order during Caravaggio's captivity in 1608. Finally, Fort Saint Angelo, fortified as early as 870 and rebuilt by the Knights in 1530-1540, was the prison where Caravaggio was held before his spectacular escape. Located 1km from the City Gate, this fort, with its 60m high keep and 156 cannons in 1798, is the culmination of your exploration of Valletta's secrets. You have traced the history of a tormented genius in this baroque city, a true open-air museum.