Lopburi — The Phaulkon Plot

Your investigation begins at King Narai's Palace (พระนารายณ์ราชนิเวศน์) in Lopburi, a secondary residence built by King Narai in 1665 to escape the splendor of Ayutthaya. This palace, surrounded by brick walls and canals, was the nerve center of the court where Constant Phaulkon, the Greek adventurer, wielded growing influence. Explore the outer courtyard, its royal garden with canals and fountains, and the structure housing the Buddha image where Narai prayed, searching for clues about the alliances and betrayals that marked this crucial period in Lopburi's history. The palace is open from 8:30 AM to 4:30 PM, with an admission fee of 50 THB for foreigners, or included in a 150 THB combo ticket.

Continue to Ban Chao Wichayen (บ้านเจ้าพ่อวิชายен), Constant Phaulkon's former residence, built in the 1680s to host foreign ambassadors. This quadrangular brick structure and its circular building, protected by solid walls near Wat Pun, witnessed the minister's rise and fall. It was here that Phaulkon was executed on June 5, 1688, after being tortured to reveal his treasure, following Narai's death. The site, open from 8:30 AM to 4:30 PM, offers insight into the complex relations between the Kingdom of Siam and Europe in the 17th century, a key element in understanding Lopburi's history.

Your journey then takes you to Prang Sam Yod (พระปรางค์สามยอด), 12th-century Khmer ruins, once a Hindu sanctuary converted into a Buddhist temple. This site is inseparable from the identity of Lopburi, the monkey city, as hundreds of wild macaques have made it their home, visible upon approaching the main intersection. While these ruins are not directly linked to the intrigues of Narai's court, they attest to the region's historical depth and its role as a cultural crossroads long before the arrival of Europeans, offering a striking contrast to the royal edifices.

Throughout the city of Lopburi, you will discover how the Somdet Phra Narai National Museum, located within the old palace, documents the history of Lopburi under Narai's reign (1656-1688). This museum showcases the king's court and relations with Europeans, particularly through Phaulkon's influence. In parallel, sites like the Kraison Siharat Palace, built in the 17th century for Narai to rest after wild elephant hunts in a wooded area, illustrate lesser-known facets of royal life in Lopburi, far from Ayutthaya's ceremonies and diplomatic intrigues.

This 1.5 km circuit through Lopburi allows you to piece together the events of 1688, from the construction of King Narai's Palace to Phaulkon's downfall at Ban Chao Wichayen. You will gain a unique perspective on Lopburi's heritage, from its Khmer ruins to its 17th-century monuments, and understand how the monkey city was a pivotal point in Siam's history. By exploring these historical sites, you will perceive the tensions between tradition and openness to the world, and the role of figures like King Narai and Phetracha in Thailand's destiny.