Dali — Nanzhao's Forgotten Prophecy

Your journey begins at the South Gate (Nanmen) of Dali Old Town, an imposing 15-meter-high fortification erected in 1382 under the Ming dynasty to protect the city. This gate, the main southern entrance, is aligned with the 1.2 km central axis of the old town, testifying to the defensive strategy against invasions. Restored in 1992 to preserve its historical character, it offers a first glimpse of the architectural power of the kingdoms that shaped Dali and Yunnan. It is here that Kublai Khan, conqueror of Dali for the Yuan, might have gazed upon the city before establishing his authority, marking the end of the Dali Kingdom's independence.

Continuing your path along the main street Renmin Lu, developed in the 14th century as a commercial axis of the Dali Kingdom, you reach the Wuhua Lou (五华楼). This 20-meter-high pavilion, built in 1685 under the Qing dynasty, served as a central observation point and architectural emblem. Located 300 meters north of Nanmen, it was historically used for official announcements and local ceremonies, reflecting Dali's central role in regional administration. Renmin Lu, 8 meters wide and lined with traditional Bai buildings, became pedestrianized in 1982, highlighting the city's commitment to its Cultural Heritage.

Your exploration then takes you to Yu'er Park (玉洱园), a lakeside park created in 1998, adjacent to Erhai Lake. 800 meters from Nanmen, this 20-hectare park offers trails and views of Erhai Lake, named after “Jade Er,” a sacred lake covering 250 km² formed 3 million years ago. This area is a site of traditional Bai fishing, where reed boats have been used since the 8th century. Erhai Lake, a National Natural Park of China, is an essential place for understanding the ancient Nanzhao Kingdom, whose inhabitants revered the surrounding waters and mountains, integrating nature into their culture and rituals.

After walking along the lake, you arrive at the North Gate (Beimen) of Dali Old Town, erected in 1382, simultaneously with Nanmen. This northern fortification of the 4 km wall, with similar dimensions to Nanmen, marks the end of the main route through the old town, 1.2 km north of the South Gate. Restored in 2005 for cultural tourism, it symbolizes the persistence of Dali's historical boundaries. Nearby is the Dali Confucian Temple (大理文庙), built in 1425 under the Ming. This 2-hectare complex, dedicated to Confucius, was used for imperial examinations until 1905, and preserves engraved steles with classical texts dating from the 15th century, demonstrating Chinese cultural influence on Yunnan.

Your quest for forgotten prophecies concludes at Erhai Gate (洱海门), a historic gate to Erhai Lake dating from the 10th century, located 1 km north of Nanmen near Yu'er Park. This 12-meter-high stone structure, with ancient Bai inscriptions, was the starting point for ritual fishing linked to Nanzhao culture. 1.5 km northeast, the Three Pagodas of Chongsheng Temple (崇圣寺三塔), erected between 824 and 859 under the Nanzhao Kingdom, stand tall, the highest reaching 69.13 meters. These pagodas, a National Monument of China, have survived earthquakes and civil wars, testifying to the resilience of Dali's major Buddhist site. Your mission as an archivist has revealed an essential part of Dali's history, between the legends of the Nanzhao Kingdom and the grandeur of imperial dynasties.