Aquae Sulis — Oracle's Curse

Your quest begins at the main entrance of the Roman Baths, Abbey Churchyard, Bath BA1 1EE, a major historic site of Aquae Sulis. It is here, on the banks of the River Avon where the Fosse Way crossed the city, that the Romans established a major baths complex in the AD 60s, fed by natural hot springs. You stand on foundations that witnessed the first Roman military presence, transforming this place into a center of worship and well-being, now a Scheduled Ancient Monument. The heritage of Southwest England begins here, beneath your feet.

The route then leads you to the Temple of Sulis Minerva, a formal complex built by the Romans, also in the AD 60s. This is where the Celtic deity Sulis was syncretized with the Roman Minerva via interpretatio romana, becoming Sulis Minerva. Altars and offerings have been found, corroborating the extent of her worship. As Docilianus, it is before this temple that you implore the goddess, seeking clues among the 130 lead curse tablets (defixiones) recovered from the Sacred Spring, most invoking Sulis Minerva for thefts.

Your investigation continues at the Great Bath, the largest pool in the complex, designated for hot spring water. From its balcony, you observe the waters, imagining the rituals and supplications. This site, at the heart of the Roman Baths UNESCO World Heritage context, is a powerful testament to Roman engineering and local spirituality. The mineral waters from these hot springs continued flowing long after the Roman era, a common thread connecting the ages in Bath.

Exploring the Roman Baths, you follow the footsteps of inhabitants who, from the 7th century, established a monastery within the Roman town walls. These walls were retained by later inhabitants, and Bath Abbey developed on the site of the Roman settlement. In the 18th century, the city of Bath underwent a Georgian makeover, particularly around the adjacent Pump Room, as Bath became a leading spa resort, improving the Roman Baths for visitors, as enabled by the city charter granted in Elizabethan times.

Your journey concludes near St Michael's Church and the Pump Room, places that have seen Bath evolve from ancient Aquae Sulis to the modern city. The statue of Sulis Minerva was pulled down and hacked apart in the early 5th century amid Roman withdrawal, marking the end of an era. Yet, the spirit of the goddess and the mysteries of the "defixiones" continue to haunt the streets of Bath. You leave with the satisfaction of having unraveled the secrets of an important historic site, having experienced a deep immersion in the heritage of Southwest England, rich in its remains and millennial history.