Oaxaca — Zapotec Codex Conspiracy

Your quest for the codex begins at the Zócalo de Oaxaca, the historic central square built in the 16th century on the foundations of the pre-Hispanic palace of Cosijoeza II, the last Zapotec king of Zaachila, who died in 1563. This 12,000 m² area, surrounded by 17th-century colonial buildings like the Palacio de Gobierno from 1773, was the scene of major protests, including the popular uprising of 2006. Here, every stone could hide a secret, every arcade a coded message from centuries past. The history of Oaxaca unfolds beneath your feet, offering a glimpse into Oaxaca's rich heritage.

Continue to the Templo de Santo Domingo de Guzmán, a Mexican national historic monument. Built between 1570 and 1611 by the Dominicans, this baroque masterpiece, with its 32 m high facade, is a pivotal point in Oaxaca's history. Its adjacent convent housed Oaxaca's first printing press in 1704, essential for spreading knowledge and printing the first Mexican colonial codex. Although the 24 tons of gold leaf from yesteryear were removed during the liberal Reform of the 1850s-1860s, the 4,000 m² of interior frescoes and gilding, classified in 1933, continue to fascinate during this interactive Oaxaca visit.

The Mercado Benito Juárez then plunges you into the bustle of local commerce and culture. Inaugurated in 1890 and named after Benito Juárez (1806-1872), born in San Pablo Guelatao, this 20,000 m² market is a vital hub for Zapotec textiles from Teotitlán del Valle and black clay from San Bartolo Coyotepec. This place, with its 50 halls and 17 access gates, is a testament to the city's dynamism, contrasting with the serenity of the Templo de la Compañía de Jesús, a Jesuit church built in 1690, transformed into a military hospital in 1767, and now housing a mural by Rodolfo Morales (1931-2001).

Your itinerary then leads you to the Basílica de Nuestra Señora de la Soledad, a church built from 1682 to 1690, which houses the statue of the Virgin of Solitude discovered in 1615. Its 28 m high baroque facade and two 35 m towers built in 1722 make it an essential landmark of Oaxacan heritage. This site, a minor basilica since 1959 and an annual pilgrimage site attracting 100,000 visitors on December 18, connects to the Andador Turístico (Alcalá Street), a paved pedestrian street inaugurated in 1980, named after Archbishop Francisco de Zumárraga. Its perfect straight line over 1.5 km from the Zócalo is typical of 16th-century Spanish colonial urban planning.

Finally, Parque El Llano, created in 1888 on an ancient Zapotec indigenous cemetery, and the Fuente de las Ocho Regiones, inaugurated in 1998 in Parque Constitución de 1812, conclude your exploration. This fountain, a work by José García Naranjo, symbolizes the 8 ethnic regions of the State of Oaxaca, with its 8 sculptures measuring 3 m high. The water drawn from the natural springs of Monte Albán, a UNESCO 1987 Zapotec site 8 km away, links this place to the ancient history of the region. This route will have allowed you to decipher the layers of Oaxaca's history, from its pre-Hispanic roots to its colonial legacy, a true GPS treasure hunt in the heart of Mexico.