Salta — Güemes's Betrayal Secret

Your investigation begins at Plaza 9 de Julio, Salta's main square, founded in 1582 by Hernando de Lerma. This 1.5-hectare expanse, surrounded by 19th-century colonial and neo-colonial buildings, was the scene of crucial gatherings for Argentine independence. In front of you, the Museo Histórico del Norte - Cabildo de Salta, built in 1782 with its local pink stone facade, preserves colonial archives and essential documents from the wars of independence from 1810 to 1821. The Cabildo was a nerve center of these conflicts, where decisions that sealed the fate of Salta and the northwest were made under the leadership of figures like Martín Miguel de Güemes.

A short walk away, the Catedral Basílica de Salta, consecrated in 1889 according to the plans of French architect Ernesto Charles Sack, stands with its 52-meter high neoclassical facade. It is here that the remains of General Martín Miguel de Güemes have rested since 1821, making this place a major pilgrimage site for Salta's heritage. Not far, the Iglesia San Francisco, founded in 1580 and rebuilt after the 1692 fire, offers its 45-meter high baroque colonial bell tower. This site houses 18th-century baroque altarpieces and colonial religious artworks, testaments to the fervor that animated the city during its troubled historical periods.

Your route then leads you to the Convento San Bernardo, founded in 1582 by the Franciscans. Its current structure, dating back to the 17th century, preserves a hard wooden carved entrance door dated 1710, a masterpiece of colonial carpentry. The inner cloister maintains the 17th-century conventual architecture with its stone arcades, offering a glimpse into monastic life and refuges during royalist invasions. These buildings, though spiritual, were cultural bastions and sometimes rallying points in the struggle for Argentine independence, marking Salta's resilience.

The itinerary continues towards the Monumento al General Martín Miguel de Güemes, a 9-meter bronze equestrian statue, sculpted by the Frenchman Lucien Bloch and inaugurated in 1909. This monument, with its pink Salta granite base, commemorates Güemes' decisive victories against the royalists from 1814 to 1821. Then, you reach the Museo Casa de Güemes, the General's historic house, dating from the 18th century and transformed into a museum in 1946. Located at Calle Espańa 730, near Plaza 9 de Julio, it preserves documents, weapons, and personal items of the general (1785-1821), offering an intimate testimony of his life.

The highlight of your exploration of the colonial heritage of northwestern Argentina is Parque San Martín, a 6-hectare urban park developed in the late 19th century by French landscape architect Carlos Thays. Approximately 800 meters from Plaza 9 de Julio, it houses the Equestrian Statue of General José de San Martín, inaugurated in 1895. By completing this walking tour, you will have not only unraveled the secret of Güemes' betrayal but also explored the key sites of Salta Argentina, enriching your understanding of the Argentine wars of independence and the role of these heroes in nation-building.